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Eritrea November 2005
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November 2005
Walking through Eritrea

 

 

Barentu Eritrea - November 26th 2005

 

I have set the alarm clock at 4:00, to increase my chances on an early bus to Barentu. 30 minutes later, I am at the bus station. There is more than 100 people waiting for their bus on the sidewalk in front of the bus station. Only eight of them are waiting for the bus to Barentu, so I am even a bit too early. But I have a perfect seat in front of the bus, that leaves at 5:45 when all seats are occupied.

At 7:15 we arrive in Agordat, where I leave the bus at the checkpoint to have my Travel Permit registered in the small office. Politely I shake hands with the military. "Welcome to Agordat, sir". The personal data from the Travel Permit are logged in a large exercise book. Same procedure when we enter Barentu around 8:30.

I do my best to catch some Kunama girls with my camera. Some show their indignation, others escape my camera with a shy smile, and some give me a few seconds to make a picture. I try to respect their privacy, but since I do not speak their language, I have to gesticulate with my camera, and wait for their reaction.

Using the telephone poles as a guide, I walk far from the main streets into the Kunama villages. When I take some rest, watching the activity around a grain-mill, a camel escapes its owner to investigate the tourist. I grab the rope around its neck and return it to the owner, who looks a bit surprised by my unexpected action.

Unfortunately, the Merhaba Hotel is still closed for renovation. This means there is no good hotel available in Barentu and I can just as well return to Agordat before sundown, to accelerate my program. With a Toyota mini-bus it takes a little more than an hour to travel to Agordat.

Bad luck! In Agordat I find Almaz' hotel deserted. Remembering we passed a hotel when we entered Agordat, I walk back to the Beilul hotel. It looks even better. A room with my own shower and toilet for 70 Nakfa only. I check in and walk to the center of Agordat, to enjoy the last hours of this day.

It is winter in Eritrea, and with a refreshing breeze it is even comfortable in Agordat this month. Passing hotel Belamberas a second time, I find Almaz working on her premises, repairing the inner court. The hotel is closed, but I HAVE to stay to drink coffee with her, to spend some time to talk to her. Almaz likes to talk. I share my last oranges with her, and leave her a small present.

A few hours later than planned I return to the Beilul hotel to have a shower, some double araki's and a good night's rest.   

 

Carrying straw to the market - Barentu Eritrea. 

Carrying straw to the market - Barentu Eritrea.

Young Tigrinya woman with child - Barentu Eritrea.

Young Tigrinya woman with child - Barentu Eritrea.

Traditional village - Barentu Eritrea.

Traditional village - Barentu Eritrea.

Traditional village - Barentu Eritrea.

Traditional village - Barentu Eritrea.

Traditional village - Barentu Eritrea.

Traditional village - Barentu Eritrea.

Carrying straw to the market - Barentu Eritrea.

Carrying straw to the market - Barentu Eritrea.

Kunama boy - Barentu Eritrea.

Kunama boy - Barentu Eritrea.

Young Kunama woman - Barentu Eritrea.

Young Kunama woman - Barentu Eritrea.

Market - Barentu Eritrea.

Market - Barentu Eritrea.

Young Nara woman with child - Barentu Eritrea.

Young Nara woman with child - Barentu Eritrea.

 

 
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