Mendefera Eritrea - October 3rd 2004

 

I planned to visit Himbirti, a small village 50 kilometers from Asmara, today. I do not know the village, but it is on my map, looks close enough for a one day trip and it would be a new experience. At the bus station there is no bus to Himbirti. It is Sunday, so there is only a few buses available. I am directed to a group of people, waiting for the bus to arrive. I ask them about the chances of finding a bus for the return trip. I should return to Asmara before 15:00. When the bus does not appear after half an hour waiting, I decide to change my plan. I do not want to be stuck in a place I do not know without any luggage.

So I follow the lure "Mendefera, Mendefera" on the other side of the bus station. This Eritrean village is familiar to me and there is a very good hotel. Just in case. The bus is a brand new Mitsubishi mini bus for 36 passengers. The Eritrean government imported a few hundred of these buses to replace the older and less reliable buses.

As a tourist I usually forget to mention and picture these typical examples of well-considered investments of the Eritrean government. Millions of Nakfa's are spend to improve infrastructure such as safe and widened roads and efficient, safe and modern transport, shortening the travel time of both goods and people. But tourists usually admire the old, the traditional and picturesque images of the country.

On our one hour drive to Mendefera we pass the mining area of Debarwa, a village I visited four months ago. I recognize the house of Alem and Kesete. I have to go back one time, to surprise them. We pass the churches on top of the hills. From the bus they look even higher than I experienced them in May, when I was climbing these hills.

In Mendefera I just missed a cycling race through the village. Children are gathered around their favorite sportsmen. Bars are crowded with thirsty spectators. I follow the long main road through Mendefera and than turn to the left to walk through the smaller streets, where children are playing football or use worn out car tires as toys.

Slowly climbing uphill I recognize St. Geoghis Coptic Church, one of Mendefera's landmarks. What I didn't realize is the fact that there is a military camp just behind it. The friendly, but strict guard points his hand to the left. I understand, no trespassing. After a short detour,  cI cross the main street to explore the other side of the village. 

The only thing special here is the snow white mosque. When I come close to it, I notice there is a small shop under it. Two Muslim man are chatting there with the shopkeeper. I ask him if he has chilled Coca Cola. Using the marble stairs of the shops entrance as a seat, I have some rest, drinking my coke.

On my way to the bus station two boys on a cart, pulled by a donkey, ask me if I want to have a lift. I except the invitation, just for the fun and to have a good reason to give them ten Nakfa for their entrepreneurship. When we reach the bus station I tell them to stop, "hansap, hansap" (wait for a moment), A few words I picked up in the Asmara buses.

Girls are roasting and selling maize cobs, sitting on the side walk near the bus station. I buy two of then and, sitting on a large stone, I eat them and wait for a chance to picture the girls. I feel a bit guilty, but they are part of my fond memories of Eritrea, so I have to picture them, to complete the story about my visit to Mendefera.

When I think I have seen it all, I take the bus back to Asmara and I have diner in Hamasien restaurant located in one of the side streets of Harnet Avenue. The Tigrinya proverb says "He who eats alone, will die alone". So I leave the change to the first one I find in need, usually old women sitting on the sidewalk, waiting for charity.

 

Old timer bus to one of the smaller villages - Asmara Eritrea.

Town circle - Mendefera Eritrea.

Pension Eritrea - Mendefera.

Regional administration - Mendefera Eritrea.

Mosque - Mendefera Eritrea.

Local children - Mendefera Eritrea.

Traditional houses - Mendefera Eritrea.

Roasting maize cobs - Mendefera Eritrea.

  

Bus station - Mendefera Eritrea.

Hamasien restaurant - Asmara Eritrea.