Dahlak Islands - November 24th 2006

 

With Tedros of Travel House International, representatives of the Massawa branch of the Ministry of Tourism, two students of the university of Asmara (archaeological department), we will engage a small cruise ship from the UK. The passengers of the ship will visit the Dahlak Islands today, accompanied by the Eritrean guides, and I am in the lucky position to follow the group, thanks to Tedros.

Yesterday we agreed to gather at the diving center at 6:00, but when me and Tedros arrive at the diving center, we are the first to be there. So we take some time for a breakfast in one of Massawa's bars. Egg sandwiches and tea. With one of the trucks of the diving center we collect a few jerry cans with drinking water and the ingredients for a lunch on board.

At 8:00 the Eritrean Shipping Lines patrol boat WINA is ready to leave the port of Masswa for the Dahlak Islands, where the cruise ship Hebridean Spirit from New Castle lies at anchor. After finishing the necessary paperwork,  we are picked up by the zodiac of the cruise ship, that will bring us to the largest island of the Dahlak archipelago. The last 100 meters we have to wade through the Red Sea shore, over the submerged reefs and slippery mud/sand/rock areas.

I decide to leave my shoes and socks in the zodiac, afraid they won't survive the trip through the water. On the shore we are welcomed be some men of an Afar fishing village. The soil of the island is strew with very nasty pieces of coral limestone. It is impossible to walk barefoot. I watch the Afar men and especially their feet. I ask an old man with big feet, if I can rent his slippers for one hour. It is okay. Lucky me.

We visit a 10th - 15th century Islamic necropolis on the west coast of Dahlak Kebir, with over 800 tombs with coral gravestones that carry Kufic (ancient Arabic) inscriptions, the ruins of an ancient mosque, fossils of the Red Sea life, and 365 cisterns carved from coral limestone, used to collect rain water (one for each day of the year to accommodate the arid climate, providing the inhabitants of Dahlak Kebir a reliable source of drinking water). The students of the Asmara University are our guide and explain what is to be seen

The island Durgam is our next destination. It is a low flat island with idyllic white sand beaches, surrounded by blue water with delicate branching corals. The WINA anchors some 500 meters from the island, while the passengers of the cruise ship are transported to the island, using one of the ships boats. 

I undress for a swim in my boxer shorts, and after rounding the patrol boat five times, I decide to swim to the shore with some of the Eritreans, who take one of WINA's lifebuoys with them, because the patrol boat is in 25 meter deep water, and not all of them are experienced swimmers. The zodiac of the Hebridean Spirit keeps an eye on its swimming passengers, and also visits us to see if everything is okay.

After one hour we return to the WINA, that sets course to Massawa, while the Hebridean Spirit will continue its cruise on the Red Sea for a visit to Oman. One of the crew members of the WINA prepares us a typical Eritrean lunch. At 17:00 we are back at the diving center.

In the Massawa Sea Food Restaurant near the tank monument, I order a fish cutlet. I ask Ruth, the waitress, if I can picture her when she brings me my meal. She adds a flower to the dish and puts on her sun-glasses to make it a nice picture. I have to bring her a copy, next time when I visit Massawa. I spend the evening in the old district of Massawa celebrating today's expedition with a lot of Asmara beers.

  

Eritrean Shipping Lines patrol boats ZEBRA and WINA - Massawa Eritrea.

Hebridean Spirit New Castle - Dahlak Islands Eritrea.

Tedros (Travel House International) in casual Dahlaki outfit
Dahlak Kebir Eritrea.

One of the 365 water cisterns, one for every day of the
year, still operational as the Dahlak Kebir water supply.

Remains of a mosque at the ancient necropolis - Dahlak Kebir Eritrea.

Ancient necropolis - Dahlak Kebir Eritrea.

Beached houri - Dahlak Kebir Eritrea.

Swimming around Eritrean Shipping Lines patrol boat "WINA".

Full speed to Massawa's mainland.

Ruth - Massawa Sea Food Restaurant - Massawa Eritrea.