Massawa Eritrea - February 11 2017

 

Mussie, one of the tour operators of Eagle Travel will pick me up at the Nda Corea house at 6:30 in the morning for the trip to Massawa. So I have set the alarm clock and I am ready in time, to prevent any delays.

In a small supermarket next to the Eagle Travel office and the cathedral Mussie buys some large bottles of mineral water. I must admit I forgot. Mineral water, Coca Cola and other soft drinks are widely available in Eritrea, and for me as a tourist it feels good to have a coke or a beer sitting outside in the sun. But it is good to have some liquids anyway, as a small reserve.

The Eagle Travel Toyota bus deserves all compliments. It is a luxury version imported from Saudi Arabia and perfectly clean. Only the sun bleached Eagle logo indicates that the van is a few years old.

So early in the morning, driving the hairpin twists, we are soon surrounded by clouds that bounce the steep escarpment. Mussie tells me that in the Arbaroba surroundings near surface gold ore and copper deposits have been found. I should have known yesterday when I followed the railway line. I guess this is the reason I saw so much road construction sites looking down from the track.

The gold and copper ores will have to be transported to Massawa by truck, because the more than 100 year old railway track is not built to carry tons of ore, I guess, as three new mines are expected to be operational by 2018, joining the Bisha gold, copper, and zinc mine, which opened in 2011 and generated nearly $2 billion in revenues in its first four years of operation. Much of the revenues are being invested by the government of Eritrea in the construction of roads, dams, as well as educational and medical facilities and agricultural projects.

In the surroundings of Ghinda we pass honey farmers who offer their honey along the side of the road. The landscape is green, as Ghinda is currently in its rainy season. The people’s life is mainly agricultural, some grazing and various commercial activities. The naturally rich agricultural fields are source to many types of fruit, sold by women and children to the passengers of the passing buses.

In Ghinda we make a short stop for tea and breakfast. And stretch our legs, of course. Ghinda is the second stage of the Eritrean Ministry of Tourism motto “Three seasons in two hours" Ghinda is a popular place to stop for those travelling from Asmara to Massawa. The many road side restaurants are doing good business. On the other side of the road, on the bus parking lot, the children and the women sell fruits, roasted maize, baskets, and small snacks.

Near Ghatelay, a small village where the new Filfil road joins the Asmara-Massawa road, the watermelons are the merchandise offered from various small side street stalls. I should not forget to buy one when we return to Asmara. A line of tea houses on the roadside invites the travelers to make a short stop to have some rest.

“Welcome to Massawa” reads a banner at the city entrance. It's pleasantly cool in Massawa. The sky is cloudy and a fresh sea breeze further cools the skin. It is winter in Massawa (November to February) and it is also the rainy season.

We pass many new apartment blocks and one or two story villa’s. The mainland part of Massawa has been extensively built since Eritrea regained independence from Ethiopia.

Eritrean flags and banners in Tigrinya mark the Fenkil celebrations. The main road is closed near the bus station, for a temporary race track. Mussie parks the bus to witness the event.

We check in at the reception of the recently renovated five star Dahlak Hotel and its extensions of the Italian entrepreneur Primo Jovani. The hotel has more than 200 bedrooms and is now fully booked, accommodating some 500 guests from all over Eritrea. I am lucky to have a budget room.

Mussie makes some phone calls and finds me an invitation for the official opening ceremony of the 27th anniversary of the liberation of Massawa. According to the entry card the ceremony will start at 16:00.

We have time for an extensive lunch in Restaurant Georghis in the mainland suburb of Massawa, Edaga. Fresh fish fingers and vegetables. And a cold coke. The restaurant staff prepares an outside table in the shade.

We also visit the street races near the bus station. A motorcycle race and rally cars circle ten times around the bus station. The Massawa police keep an eye on the public and me to make sure nobody leaves the sideways.

At 16:00 Mussie drops me near the Square in front of the Sigalet Cinema. A friendly hostess point me to my seat on row number ten. The ceremony starts with a minute of music in minor by two brass instruments, and everyone standing, heads down to commemorate the martyrs who gave their lives for the liberation of Massawa/Eritrea.

Next is the speeches by the Mayor of Massawa, and the Chairman of the Holidays Coordinating Committee of the Northern Red Sea Region, explaining the importance of the liberation of Massawa. “Fenkil, precursor of the final phase”, a decisive moment in the history of the struggle for independence, that paved the way for Eritrea’s total liberation.

And then there is music, dance and performances of various local singers, surrounded by dancers in their beautiful cultural dresses, or army outfit, and cultural performances. The Massawa citizens, and spectators that visit the event from various parts of Eritrea dance in front of the stage.

I do my best to make some pictures. The first three rows are reserved for the VIP’s and the Eritrean navy in their white uniforms. It means I have to zoom in my camera on the stage, which is a bit difficult because the audience is dancing, waving with smart phones, and jumping in front of me. 

One of the hostesses gets a signal from the audience and observes my situation. She lifts my chair and carries it five rows to the front, so I am right behind the navy and the VIP’s, much closer to the stage and have no problem taking some nice pictures. It is a typical example of Eritrean hospitality to the tourist, that wasn’t even supposed to be in the ceremony. The show ends with the Eritrean anthem, with hands on the heart, and hats off.

When the shows have ended, and the public leaves the square. It is getting dark. I am supposed to notify Mussie that the ceremonies is finished, and to pick me up. I do not have a cell phone. Therefore, I choose a random Eritrean to ask if he can make a short phone call to Mussie. No problem at all. I tell Mussie I will be waiting in front of the cinema. 

Some ten minutes later he is there, and after a coke in front of the Dahlak Hotel, we spend the evening in the old town, which is now very lively, with people sitting in the open air in front of the many bars, listening to the music, and sipping coke, mineral water, Araki, and Asmara beers. We have a fresh fish from the fish ovens of the Selam Fish Restaurant. (You may choose your fish, by visiting the kitchen). The fish is served with delicious, very thin kitcha.

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Clouds bouncing the road to Massawa - Asmara Eritrea.

Bus stop on the road to Massawa - Gindae Eritrea.

Welcome to Gindae Cafe - Gindae Eritrea.

Eroded landscape - Gindae Eritrea.

Motorcycle race / Fenkil celebrations - Massawa Eritrea.

Dahlak Hotel - Massawa Eritrea.

Dahlak Hotel - Massawa Eritrea.

Dahlak Hotel - Massawa Eritrea.

Dahlak Hotel - Massawa Eritrea.

Gorgusum Beach Party - Massawa Eritrea.

Decorated Shop - Massawa Eritrea.

Traditional house - Massawa Eritrea.

Traditional house - Massawa Eritrea.

Mussie Tesfazghi - Tour Operator Eagle Travel Asmara..

Former Bank of Italia - Massawa Eritrea.

Office of Immigration & Nationality - Massawa Eritrea.

Bar and restaurant - Batse Massawa Eritrea.

Commercial Bank of Eritrea - Batse Massawa Eritrea.

Torino Hotel - Batse Massawa Eritrea.

Imperial Palace - Batse Massawa Eritrea.

First elevator in Africa - Massawa Eritrea.

Dam connecting Tualud and Batse - Massawa Eritrea.

Fenkil Tank Monument - Tualud Massawa Eritrea.

Saint Michael Church - Tualud Massawa Eritrea.

 

Invitation for the official ceremony - Fenkil 2017 Massawa Eritrea.
Thank you Mussie Tesfazghi! - Tour Operator Eagle Travel Asmara.

Fenkil celebration ceremonies - Massawa Eritrea.

Fenkil celebration ceremonies - Massawa Eritrea.

Fenkil celebration ceremonies - Massawa Eritrea.

Fenkil celebration ceremonies - Massawa Eritrea.

Fenkil celebration ceremonies - Massawa Eritrea.

Selam Fish Restaurant - Batse Massawa Eritrea.

Selam Fish Restaurant kitchen - Batse Massawa Eritrea.

Torino Hotel by night - Batse Massawa Eritrea.

Batse at night - Massawa Eritrea.

 

 This tour was prepared and sponsored by:
 Eagle Travel and Tour Services Asmara.