Keren Eritrea - May 28th 2007

 

Again I had a wonderful night in perfect climatic conditions. The animals wake me up at 6:00, I get out at 7:00 when I hear Hansu and Afeworki being busy in and around the house. Like every morning Hansu makes fresh coffee with some breads and scrambled eggs with some tomato and onion, before she will go to her work 

On Monday there is a livestock market three kilometers SE of Keren. I follow the empty riverbed of the Cuif Cuifit river to pass the many camels and donkeys carrying their loads of fire wood and roofing materials. If you ever want to ride a camel for a fair price, this is the place to be (when they are unloaded).

On my way to the animal market, I meet Habte Woldu, Afeworki's brother. He accompanies me to the market, that is next to the road to Afabet. I make a few circles around the two compounds and then join the men drinking tea in a half open tea house on the slope of a hill.

Suddenly a mad bull attacks the tea house. I run for my life and hide behind the concrete pillars of the tea house, until the beast is redirected to the market with wooden sticks. I enjoy the scenic views over the countryside with its terraced slopes and scattered traditional houses, and the men doing their business in there typical Muslim outfit. I watch the lively market for an hour, before returning to the center of Keren.

In Kidane Asgedom Bar and Fast-food Restaurant I order Silsi Keyh, a mixture of egg, onion, tomato and berbere, with two breads. It tastes good, but just a bit too much chili for a foreigner. I need some mineral water to wash away the hot spices. It is not available, but a friendly waiter searches the neighborhood until he finds what I want, and returns after a few minutes with a 1,5 liter bottle from a neighboring shop.

I spend the rest of the day walking through the outskirts SE of Keren  and conclude the day drinking fresh lemon- and zeitun drinks, and making fun with the children at the bus station. Just before dark I have my shoes cleaned at one of the stalls, and my kidneys cleaned with some Asmara beers in restaurant Stuttgart, to make an appointment with Hidat and Rahel for tomorrows festival at the shrine of Mariam Dearit.  

 

Former railway bridge over the Ciuf Ciufit river - Keren Eritrea.

Local children - Keren Eritrea.

Firewood market - Keren Eritrea.

Household utensils market - Keren Eritrea.

Camels delivering firewood - Keren Eritrea.

Camel hidden under roofing materials - Keren Eritrea.

Camel carrying roofing materials - Keren Eritrea.

Monday livestock market - Keren Eritrea.

Monday livestock market - Keren Eritrea.

Monday livestock market - Keren Eritrea.

Traditional house - Keren Eritrea.