Massawa - December 4 2009

 

In the early morning, when temperatures are still moderate, I walk some seven kilometers on the road to Asmara up to the 14 arch railway bridge crossing the Obel river.

I pass the Massawa Housing Complex, other new built residential houses and offices, abandoned railway equipment and after a few kilometers, the EPLF Martyrs Cemetary. When I reach the bridge, I take some rest before returning to Massawa.

When I walk back a Toyota mini bus stops next to me, offering me a ride for 100 Nakfa. I tell the driver that I prefer to walk. "But it is far" he says. I tell him that I know, because I started my walk in Massawa this morning.

The driver than offers me a ride for 50 Nakfa, but I don't need his services, because I need the exercise, and 50 Nakfa is still almost twice the price for the ticket from Asmara to Massawa.

I walk through the Kutmiya district, a shanty town with wooden houses on the left of the road to Asmara.

For a moment, I wonder what I am doing here, as a tourist. The answer comes immediately. I see a large bag filled with breads in front of a makeshift shop. I found my breakfast. I buy one of the breads. The women offer me a  small stool to sit on, and a can filled with cool water, mixed with a powder called "Tank" and lots of sugar to give it an orange taste.

When I want to reward her and draw my wallet, she refuses "No! Gifti!". It wettens my eyes. A gift from a poor shopkeeper to a tourist staying in the most expensive hotel in Massawa. I have to remember the place, to bring her a nice "gifti" next time I visit Massawa.

In the early afternoon I take the bus back to Asmara. Not the best time to travel, but I do not want to spend another night in the heat, and my permit for Massawa already expired anyway.

When I arrive at the bus station, the "Asmara, Asmara!" directs me to the bus. I have one of the last seats, and the bus leaves a few minutes later. The remaining seats are for the passengers waiting on the road to Asmara.

Three hours later, I am in Asmara, where enjoy fruit juices, cappuccinos, and mini pizza's. It is nice to be back in the moderate Asmara climate.

I check my e-mail in the TSE Cyber cafe, next to the Telecommunications office, and visit some friends and family to say goodbye.

With Kibreab I have the remaining vitamins in Rita's Bar Gurgusum in Harnet Avenue. I exchange telephone numbers, addresses en gifts with Rita, for her family in The Netherlands. Rita leaves her bar for a minute and comes back with some fresh roasted peanuts, for the customers, and a special saucer for me.

Rita knows how to keep a bar and make the visitors feel at home. She hops from customer to customer, having a few words and fun with all of them. I noticed that Bar Gurgusum is crowded when Rita is in, and almost empty when she is resting.

Drinking with Kibreab means an overdose of vitamins. "Saba told me to take good care of Hans, when he is in Eritrea" he says. Saba is Kibreab's sister, and one my wife's best girlfriends, which means that Kibreab is almost my brother, or at least one of my best friends.

 

Fishermen between the mangroves - Massawa Eritrea.

Massawa housing complex - Massawa Eritrea.

Mosque - Edaga Berai Massawa Eritrea.

Aquafresh depot - Massawa Eritrea.

Exit to Gurgusum beaches - Massawa Eritrea.

Abandoned railway equipment - Massawa Eritrea.

Patriots cemetary - Massawa Eritrea.

Post office - Edaga Berai Massawa Eritrea.

Carrying firewood to the market - Edaga Berai Massawa Eritrea.

Tea bar in an abandoned USSR aircraft - Bus terminal Massawa Eritrea.

Bus terminal and apartments under construction - Massawa Eritrea.