Muscha Eritrea - November 28 2007

 

On the map it looks an attractive ten kilometer walk, but for the first time I would experience that maps of countries like Eritrea may contain errors. But I am lucky. A boy who is walking to his plot of land to harvest (carrying a sharp reaping hook), accompanies me for a few kilometers. After the checkpoint he convinces me that we have to take the road that forks to the right (instead of going to the left, following the road to Afabet).

Should I believe him, or the map? In any other African country it would be an act of suicide to follow  this unexpected advice to turn to the right when the map suggests to turn to the left. But I have more trust in the Eritreans than in the Canadian publisher of the map. After a two hours walk I pass Fredarb, the Anseba river bed and finally Muscha.

On route people asked me whom I was going to visit in Muscha. Since it is not easy to explain that you are going two hours on foot, just to visit a dot on a map, I told everyone I was going to visit friends. Not knowing that friends were actually waiting!

When looking where to leave the road to enter the village, a girl addresses me: "Hey, come here! Come to our house to drink tea!". I accept the invitation and enter the house, where I am invited to drink coffee and lemon juice with Walid's mother and aunt in one of the few modern houses in this village.

The house is not more then one large room with two beds, some very small chairs, a table and a cupboard. Two framed certificates of family members that gave their lives during one of the recent wars explain why there is no men in this family.

Walid is the only one who speaks a little English, asking me questions and translating the conversation in Tigre. I have to tell when I will come back. I promise her I will return around May 29 2008 when there will be a festival in Keren. I ask her what I shall bring her. She is shy. I think anything will do as long as I do not forget her.

I give the women 100 Nakfa and two strips of Paracetamol. It is the only gift I can think of. We say goodbye and I have to promise I will come back next year, bring them their pictures, and stay with them.

After a two hours walk, I am back in Keren, happy with today's experience. I spend the afternoon in the center of Keren, watching the colorful people and the street life.

 

Road to Afabet - Keren Eritrea.

Road to Afabet - Keren Eritrea.

Road to Afabet - Keren Eritrea.

Road to Afabet - Keren Eritrea.

Scenic view - Faralebra Eritrea.

Crossing the Anseba riverbed between Faralebra and Muscha.

Scenic view - Muscha Eritrea.

Traditional houses - Muscha Eritrea.

Walid and her cats - Muscha Eritrea.

Coffee ceremony with an Eritrean family - Muscha Eritrea.