Nda Mariam Church (Nigdet) - Asmara Eritrea - December 01 2007

 

At 6:30 I walk from the Corea Housing Complex to the Nda Mariam Orthodox Church. Today there will be a celebration called "Nigdet". When I get close to the gate, the crowd thickens. Thousands of women, most of them dressed in their traditional white zuria's have gathered, most in front of the church, some praying on their knees.

Boys are selling all kinds of religious books, posters, crosses and kitsch. Priests under gilded umbrellas ring bells and bless people for a Nakfa or more. The loudspeakers in front of the church spread the prayers and singing of the service that takes place in the church (that will be so crowded, that I do not think of getting near or within).

The crowd answers the prayers. Some women kneel and kiss the ground. Handicapped, old and people in need ask for an alms, repeating "Nda Mariam, Nda Mariam". Unfortunately I did not bring packs of ten Nakfa notes like last year.

At 10:00 the service has ended and the motley crowd of priests, monks, musicians, and kids of the theological schools parade from the church to the square in front of it and rounding a few streets in the neighborhood.

While the police is directing the people to stand on the sidewalks, I am allowed to take a good position on the street next to the camera men of ERI TV  to make my pictures.

When the feast is finished I change a few hundred euro's at Himbol Exchange. I forget my rucksack, but within a minute my mobile phone rings. "Sir, you forgot your bag." I will never again question the relevance of asking my phone number when exchanging foreign currency! 

In the afternoon the feast continues in the family houses. I visit the house of Haile and Freweyni and their kids in the center of Asmara who have organized a lunch of injera and suwa for the extended family. I just have some tea. My diet is a good excuse to refuse any food that I do not want to eat.  

 

Nda Mariam Cathedral - Asmara Eritrea.

Celebrating Nigdet - Nda Mariam Cathedral - Asmara Eritrea.

Small scale trade - Nda Mariam Cathedral - Asmara Eritrea.

Orthodox priest - Nda Mariam Cathedral - Asmara Eritrea.

Celebrating Nigdet - Nda Mariam Cathedral - Asmara Eritrea.

Celebrating Nigdet - Nda Mariam Cathedral - Asmara Eritrea.

Celebrating Nigdet - Nda Mariam Cathedral - Asmara Eritrea.

Celebrating Nigdet - Nda Mariam Cathedral - Asmara Eritrea.

Celebrating Nigdet - Nda Mariam Cathedral - Asmara Eritrea.

Celebrating Nigdet - Nda Mariam Cathedral - Asmara Eritrea.